Friday, June 09, 2006

Sunshine!

I'm on a high because it has been continuous sunshine for almost 2 weeks now - even the English are surprised.

Dartmoor was nice - reminded me of Central Otago because of the rocks, but it had more grass and neat stone walls. There were cute black-faced, black-legged sheep with thick white coats; and wild ponies with their foals. The hills were a bit nasty though - not big but just very steep. Had to push my bike up 3 hills in one day. Bought some fudge at a shop and the sugar-rush helped a bit.

A couple of days later I was heading towards Bodmin Moor, and not wishing to repeat my Dartmoor experience of relentless grunts up hills I decided to take one of the major roads - the A30, straight through Bodmin Moor. Only problem with this route was that there wasn't much of a view and it was so noisy with all the traffic. Was glad to get back to my quiet country lanes again. Stopped off at a famous House called Lanhydrock House. (I am now a proud member of the National Trust after a very pushy lady 'convinced' me to join - it's all for a good cause though - they buy up land and houses and preserve them and as a member I get free entry). The coolest thing about the House was the kitchen - there was a HUGE roasting fire with a spit that can fit an entire half-cow. They actually lit the fire a few years ago and cooked a cow on it but it took 3 days to clean up the mess so they've never done it again! Then there was the dry foods store room, meat store room, and the separate fish store room and, coolest of all, was the dessert room. The marble benches where the desserts were placed were kept cool by troughs of water running along them fed from a nearby stream.

I got back on bike route number 3 and continued south to St Austell, where Nicola Roderick's sister Becky is working in a campsite. Stayed with Becky and Jenny two nights in their flash caravan (3 bedrooms and fully plumbed in). Thanks you two :) Spent the day off exploring St Austell - they do China Clay mining there. China clay is white clay used initially for porcelain/ceramics but now 80% is used in the paper industry (gives the gloss to paper). Also visited the Eden project which is the world's largest greenhouse. That was OK - if you are into plants. But they did a fairly good job of it. My favourite part was fruit orchard where there were peach trees with peaches on - they weren't yet ripe but it was so tempting. I'm sure everyone else had the same thought!

The next leg of the trip was heading south towards Lands End (most Southwest point of England). It was a lovely ride through coastal towns. Went past St Michael's Mount, which is similar but not as stunning as Mont St Michel in France. Mousehole (apparently pronounced Mouzil - love the English names!) was a particularly cute fishing village.

The Cornish coastline (we're in Cornwall now) is stunning. Rugged cliffs with grass at the top and then, unbelievably, turquoise water with white sand beaches, like you'd expect to see in the tropical islands! The water is still freezing though - a swim consists of one dip under the water lasting less than a second. Went to the Minack theatre, an outdoor theatre built into the cliff-face. The brain-child of a single woman who worked on it for years. A bonus was I scored a free ticket - walked up to buy a ticket and the couple in front of me said "have one of ours - our friends can't make it'. Turns out they were kiwis too...

Now I am heading north up the western coast, mainly following cycle route 3. It's taken me on a couple of converted rail-routes which are blissfully flat and often shady as they run beside streams and in the forests.

I met a keen cyclist who has biked around NZ - carrying only a small daypack and no panniers. He even biked down the Homer Tunnel into Milford Sound - on a road bike with narrow tyres. The Homer Tunnel is a long steep tunnel that is scary enough in a car!

Today I was hesitating at an intersection (I was tired and brain working slowly to make decisions) and a lady came up to me and asked where I was going. Ended up she invited me back to her house so here I am. They have given me loads of tips about where to cycle and when so I think I'll change my plans a bit and head straight for Scotland from Bristol, as this is the best time of year to see Scotland (less rain and no mosquitoes). Thanks for your hospitality Rachel and Tim!

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